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Silver Solder Help And Other Advice Requested...
#1
Ok all, Here is the deal:



A co worker bought a set of Mossburg 500 sights from Brownells. The rear ghost ring is a screw on and no issue. The front sight needs to be attached to the the barrel. I can drill and counter sink the sight to take advantage of the threaded brass "barleycorn" mounting hole but we are still looking at soldering it in place. I'm good with this sort of thing in general and can sweat pipe like a mo-fo so I'm not afraid of it. I'm looking for product, tool and technique advice. Also open to other options.



Ron, yes- it IS involved in my current project <img src='http://www.hoodswoods.net/IVB/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='Tongue' />





Muddyboots
Shared pain is lessened, shared joy is increased!

Thus do we refute entropy. -S. Robinson



Communication is a Survival Skill! So is critical thinking!





When any government, or any church for that matter, undertakes to say to its subjects, "This you may not read, this you must not see, this you are forbidden to know," the end result is tyranny and oppression, no matter how holy the motives. Mighty little force is needed to control a man whose mind has been hoodwinked; contrariwise, no amount of force can control a free man, a man whose mind is free. No, not the rack, not fission bombs, not anything—you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him.



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#2
The factory Mossburg bead uses a 4-40 thread. Using a screw that size reinforced with JB weld would hold.



Silver soulder and sweating pipe are two different things. SS is high temp using special solder, flux.
Don't know what you're doing, do you?
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#3
I've soft soldered ribs on muzzleloaders. I'm not sure if you mean silver braze that takes 1000 degrees or so or silver bearing soft solder that takes 600 degrees or so. the way i soft solder a rib is to clean the area I want soldered with fine sandpaper flux it and tin it, I'll tin both pieces, then clamp the two pieces together and heat until the tinned areas bond together. I also use soapstone rubbed along the joint to keep any runs contained.









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#4
Dear Muddyboots,



It's kind of pricey, but I've had really good results with:



http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=645/P...ZED_SOLDER



The suck is that on a Carbon gun, soldering anything is going to mean at least touching up the finish.



Brownells makes a springloaded jig specifically for soldering front ramps, but I've only ever used a V block and wire.



Regards,



Don Oso
Don Oso



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#5
I'd send it to RoBar Guns and have them silver solder it. They do that sort of stuff on a regular basis.



What sort of sight are we talking about? "Rifle" or slug gun style? Don't try to silver solder it if it has a tritium insert. The heat will melt it out and it will need to be replaced. <img src='http://www.hoodswoods.net/IVB/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/oops.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':oops:' />



Remember that solder flows to the heat. If you have a chunk of metal like a rifle sight and a thin shotgun barrel you are going to have to get the rifle sight hot first (and keep it hot), then get the barrel hot to join the two. Expect that you will have a seam of solder that will not refinish.
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Amos 5:12-14
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#6
[quote name='abby normal' date='03 July 2010 - 10:32 PM' timestamp='1278210743' post='474320']

...will have a seam of solder that will not refinish.

[/quote]





Pff

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#7
I have done a few FH's, and a few misc parts..i am ok at it, nothing more



I'd think that if you took your time, positioned the site well, mixed some finley cut solder with a little flux to make a paste, then hit it with the

heat you'd get a good joint.
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#8
if it has a mount hole in it and is parkerized, i'd say screw it and JB-weld a sight on the front, with involvement in the bead hole, for a mechanical lock.



anything that disturbs that bond is going to snap a combat sight anyways. - kindly look at the JB weld white papers if you contest that.



tape the outside of the weld footprint with tape so that the excess JB weld comes up perfectly neatly.



done.





that said, silver soldering is pretty awesome, but if you can achieve the mechanical lock, it is wasteful as a practice IMHO.



anything that defeats JB Weld is going to kill you too, so eff it IMHO.



vec
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#9
Vec has a really good point. I made a set of sights on my NAA mini with JB weld, and they held up great undeder lots of pocket wear and shooting. The factory did not even make fun of them when i sent it in for repair. I have since removed them, and it was a job to do so.



If you rouged up the BBL, and made a band of JB 'round it, makung the sight integral, i'd bet it would work just fine.
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#10
See there, I told you!
Don't know what you're doing, do you?
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#11
Any progess MB?



thanks,

scottMaN
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#12
I'd shrink a barrel band on it myself.

Make the band maybe .001" under the existing barrel O.D.

That's enough for a good mechanical lock but not enough to distort the barrel.



If you can sweat solder pipe you can heat a barrel band enough that it'll slide on and still give you a few seconds to align the new front sight before the band shrinks to a mechanical pressed fit.

And if you want a little more time, freeze the barrel in a chest type freezer for an hour before you start heating the band and the band should drop right on.
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#13
That barrel band is a good idea! Unfortunately we finished it a month ago...





What we did was drill out the underside of the sight so it slipped right over the barlycorn. We then masked the barrel with etching wax and used a nitric acid etch to prep the barrel surface. After etching and removing the mask, we Epoxied the frontsight to the etched surface, using the barlycorn as a pin. The epoxy we used is a JB product that is steel filled and was recommended to me by a guy who just left the AMTU machine shop.



It isn't coming off easily.



Muddyboots
Shared pain is lessened, shared joy is increased!

Thus do we refute entropy. -S. Robinson



Communication is a Survival Skill! So is critical thinking!





When any government, or any church for that matter, undertakes to say to its subjects, "This you may not read, this you must not see, this you are forbidden to know," the end result is tyranny and oppression, no matter how holy the motives. Mighty little force is needed to control a man whose mind has been hoodwinked; contrariwise, no amount of force can control a free man, a man whose mind is free. No, not the rack, not fission bombs, not anything—you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him.



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#14
Quote:The epoxy we used is a JB product that is steel filled and was recommended to me by a guy who just left the AMTU machine shop.

I use that steel filled JB product on my wind turbines.*grins*
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#15
I am liking this thread.
Andre Dumouchel





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(Some Men Too, and That's Ok!)

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